Berdyansk Musings

Observations from our time in Berdyansk (a city of 200,00 located on the Sea of Azov), a city coming to life in anticipation of the upcoming summer season. Amidst the decaying infrastructure, there is a lot of construction activity and a constant push to improve what is here. There are beautiful modern buildings being built beside tumbled-down hovels; paths lined with blooming tulips, irises and other flowers; fountains being built; nicely cobbled streets and walkways followed by sidewalks that are almost impassable for the potholes and tree root damage. The posh seaside resorts of the OBX-like Berdyansk peninsula coexist with the monotonous grey soviet-era apartment buildings. As with much of Ukraine, the dichotomy of the physical surroundings reflects the pride and weariness of its people. We see many young men hanging out in groups throughout the city, not threatening, but always present, usually with beer bottles open, no matter the time of day. Babooshkas out sweeping the roads with twig brooms, dogs and cats running loose everywhere, and everyone talking on a cell phone. The young ladies showing off their shapely legs in the shortest possible skirts, the tightest pants, skittering along in the highest heels imagineable. An “apteka” (drug store) or bank on every street, along with the countless small kiosks hawking every type of beverage and candy. The fishermen out in their rafts (not boats) catching small ugly black fish, seen later being dried, hanging from windows and available at the local street market, or “riynak.” Watch your step – the drivers swerve and pass with maddening regularity, dodge pothols and imperil the lives of pedestrians everywhere!

At our motel with no name, the gentlemen who manage the establishment are always present in the lobby area outside our room door. They lock and unlock the street gate for us after our daily comings and goings. The maid accepts 5 grivnah to clean our room (about 1 dollar) and though we have tried to give her more, she will not accept a tip. The rooms are swept out, as there does not appear to be a vacuum on the premises. Our 2-room suite is very comfortable and quite reasonable at $36 per night, with a small fridge, 2 TVs, a sofa that pulls out to accomodate the 3 girls, and a sitting area in the bedroom. Tomorrow we will attempt a BBQ on the back patio. The motel is one lot back from the water’s edge. We walk beside the sea wall during our daily excursions into town, and often get a drenching of sea spray. There is a medium-sized food store nearby that supplies our daily breakfast and snack foods. We eat a late lunch out, usually at the Hotel Berdyansk, which appears to be the only non-smoking restaurant in town with an English menu. Dinnertime finds us either munching left-overs or at one of the restaurants close to the motel. The people who run these establishments have come to know us and welcome us with a smile, and a babbling stream of Russian words…we say “Spi-cee-ba” (thank you) and sit down.

We have really enjoyed sampling the numerous simple salads on every menu…fresh veggies and chunks of chicken, meat or fruit and nuts, usually mixed with herbs and mayo. Jim has gone running a few times, and the daily long walks are helping to keep us from adding the pounds (maybe). (Sorry Heather…our exercise plan is under-utilized!) We have fallen prey to the daily habit of eating some nice torte with our afternoon tea, and the desserts abound. Ukraine offers some terrific candies and delicious sweets, and we willing to try all of them.

Our routine remains pretty constant. School in the morning, Kate & Taylor at the hotel and Elizabeth at the orphanage. Once we pick up Elizabeth, we have a late lunch, followed by some activity, a walk back to the hotel (usually stopping at a small outdoor arcade for a game) and then a snack and movie before turning in. Here are a couple of photos Elizabeth took at the zoo. She appears to have Jean's prowess with a camera!!